Mazda Mazda 6 common problems: what to check before you buy
Credov's researched list of the 8 faults the Mazda Mazda 6 is known for (2012–2016), 7 of them serious or costly. Each one says what to look for when you check the car, so you can spot it before you buy. Not every car has these faults: they are the ones worth checking on this model.
Known problems on the Mazda Mazda 6
Electric park brake drags or fails
Safety risk
What to look for: Park on a slope, apply the park brake, and feel the rear wheels after the drive for one hotter than the other.
Why it matters: A seized or dragging rear caliper wears the pads and disc fast and can overheat the brake, while a park brake that no longer holds on a slope is a real safety risk. Both are cheap to catch with a slope test and a feel of the wheels after the drive.
What to look for: Feel for a thump or flare shifting 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd, worse when cold, and slipping on hills.
Why it matters: Owner reports and complaint data describe the same pattern on this automatic: shifts getting rougher with age, old unchanged fluid making it worse, and a used gearbox often being the only fix once it slips. Checking the fluid-change history and feeling the shifts avoids buying a car close to a gearbox replacement.
2005–2016 · LF-DE, LF-VE, L3-VE, L8-DE · petrol · Engine
What to look for: From a stone-cold start, listen at the engine's timing end for a rattle that lasts a few seconds.
Why it matters: Left alone, a stretched chain or worn VVT gear can jump timing; on these engines that lets the valves hit the pistons and destroys the engine. Owners have reported engines failing at 145,000-250,000 km after exactly this rattle was ignored, so an early chain-and-tensioner job is far cheaper than the alternative.
What to look for: Pull the dipstick: sludgy, gritty or strong-smelling oil points to carbon blocking the oil pick-up.
Why it matters: Once carbon blocks the oil pick-up the engine runs with no oil pressure and is usually destroyed, even on a well-serviced car, turning a cheap injector-seal job into an engine replacement. Oil condition and service history are the only warning most buyers get.
What to look for: Check the coolant tank level and the oil filler cap for a milky film, and watch for white exhaust smoke.
Why it matters: A cracked head lets coolant mix with the oil, which wrecks bearings if driven on, and owners and complaint data report repairs of US$5,000-11,000 when not covered by warranty. Checking the coolant and oil now catches it before a short drive turns into an engine job.
What to look for: Check the coolant tank for a tide line, and smell for sweet coolant at the back of the engine.
Why it matters: Coolant loss on this engine often ends up contaminating the oil, and the usual repair is a full engine or long block rather than just the head, with out-of-warranty quotes in the thousands. A coolant and heater check before buying is far cheaper than finding out on the side of the road.
What to look for: Pull the dipstick on level ground: oil at or above the upper mark, or smelling of diesel, is a bad sign.
Why it matters: Diluted oil is thin and lubricates poorly, and has been blamed for turbo, camshaft and bearing damage, in some cases a full engine replacement. A dipstick check and a question about how the car is driven cost nothing and catch this before it wears the engine out.
What to look for: Look along the bonnet, bumper and mirrors for chips, and check the bonnet colour matches the guards.
Why it matters: Mazda's soft, multi-layer paint chips more than most, and the tinted reds cost more to colour-match and repair than a solid colour, so heavy chipping or a repainted, mismatched bonnet is a real cost to budget for or negotiate off the price.
Got a question about a Mazda Mazda 6? Ask Credov: a noise, a warning light, a part or how to fix it.
Also check on every car
On top of the faults above, every Credov inspection covers the basics: fuel smell, leaks or filler rust, engine oil leaks, power steering fluid leak, drive belt cracks or squeal, rust underneath: chassis and mounts, engine mounts, engine oil level and colour, coolant level, colour and leaks, head gasket failure signs, cold start: rattle, knock or smoke, rough or hunting idle, engine running hot on gauge, gearbox or diff oil leak, swapped gearbox without lvv and more.
Researched by Credov from manufacturer recalls and service bulletins, owner reports and workshop sources. Repair prices are typical ranges, not quotes. See also fault codes and repair costs.