Tesla Model SP90D common problems: what to check before you buy
Credov's researched list of the 6 faults the Tesla Model SP90D is known for (2012–2018), 5 of them serious or costly. Each one says what to look for when you check the car, so you can spot it before you buy. Not every car has these faults: they are the ones worth checking on this model.
Known problems on the Tesla Model SP90D
Touchscreen lag, reboots or black screen
Costly if missed
2012–2018 · ev · Electrical
What to look for: Force a screen reboot with both scroll wheels and watch for a slow restart, lag, a blank map or a black screen.
Why it matters: A dead or dying MCU1 can take the reversing camera, demist, climate and charging settings down with it, and leaves the car hard to drive comfortably until it is fixed. Tesla's free-replacement window is tied to the car's age and odometer, not to who owns it, so a car near or past 8 years / 160,000 km may already be outside cover and facing a four-figure repair.
What to look for: On the test drive with the radio off, listen for a whine or grinding from the rear that rises with speed.
Why it matters: A failing rear drive unit progresses from noise to vibration to a loss of drive, and a reconditioned replacement is one of the costliest single repairs on the car. Buying a car with early symptoms, or one that has already had a unit replaced outside Tesla's warranty, can mean a large bill soon after purchase.
What to look for: Check the car sits level on arrival, then raise and lower it from the screen and watch each corner move evenly.
Why it matters: A sagging corner or a failing compressor only gets worse, and an independent shop repair runs well into four figures per corner. The fault can start as something subtle - slow levelling, one corner a little low overnight - so a car that looks fine standing still can already be heading for a bump-stop ride, and a height sensor fault can mimic a leak, so finding which one it is avoids paying to fix the wrong part.
What to look for: Check the frunk coolant reservoir level and look under the rear with a torch for coolant crust on the drive unit.
Why it matters: A failed rotor seal lets coolant flood the drive unit and inverter, and the repair or a reconditioned replacement is one of the most expensive single repairs on the car, so catching early warning signs before it fails completely is worth a lot to a buyer.
Typical repair: NZ$2,500–NZ$16,000 in New Zealand · A$2,580–A$16,480 in Australia
What to look for: Charge to 100% and compare the range shown against the car's original rated range for that pack.
Why it matters: A capped pack means the car will never again show the range it was sold with, and because this was a software change rather than a fault it will not show up as a warning light, so a buyer who does not check could be surprised later.
What to look for: Look along all window chrome and the trim strips under the doors for staining, bubbling or lifted edges.
Why it matters: Stained or bubbling trim is cosmetic but spreads over time and is not a Tesla warranty item, so a buyer should expect to either live with it, replace the mouldings, or wrap them.
Got a question about a Tesla Model SP90D? Ask Credov: a noise, a warning light, a part or how to fix it.
Also check on every car
On top of the faults above, every Credov inspection covers the basics: fuel smell, leaks or filler rust, engine oil leaks, power steering fluid leak, drive belt cracks or squeal, rust underneath: chassis and mounts, engine mounts, engine oil level and colour, coolant level, colour and leaks, head gasket failure signs, cold start: rattle, knock or smoke, rough or hunting idle, engine running hot on gauge, gearbox or diff oil leak, swapped gearbox without lvv and more.
Researched by Credov from manufacturer recalls and service bulletins, owner reports and workshop sources. Repair prices are typical ranges, not quotes. See also fault codes and repair costs.