Credov's researched list of the 22 faults the Subaru Forester is known for (2012–2014), 16 of them serious or costly. Each one says what to look for when you check the car, so you can spot it before you buy. Not every car has these faults: they are the ones worth checking on this model.
What to look for: Ask for proof the valve spring recall was done, and listen at cold start for metallic ticking or knocking.
Why it matters: The register describes a defective valve spring that can fracture, causing the engine to stall and possibly not restart. A car with the campaign still open cannot be retailed responsibly until it is done.
What to look for: Check the VIN on the NZTA recall lookup, and ask for the dealer invoice showing the airbag inflator was replaced.
Why it matters: Takata inflators can degrade with heat and humidity and the metal housing may rupture, propelling fragments through the airbag cushion. Retailing a car with an open campaign is a clear Fair Trading Act and CGA exposure.
What to look for: With a torch, check each front lower control arm and the crossmember for flaking or layered rust.
Why it matters: A control arm that fails while driving causes a sudden loss of steering control, which is a safety risk as well as a repair bill; a Japanese import that spent years in a snow region is at higher risk and is worth checking carefully underneath.
What to look for: Check the dipstick cold for a low level, look for a top-up bottle, and watch for blue exhaust smoke.
Why it matters: The bulletin repair was an engine short block. On a $10-20k car that is a margin-destroying repair if it surfaces after sale.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Feel for judder pulling away gently, and listen for a whine at a steady 50-60 km/h that follows road speed.
Why it matters: A CVT replacement is one of the largest single repair bills on this era of Subaru and no NZ warranty program backs it. Symptoms on the test drive are the only cheap defence.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the breather valve recall is done, and watch the exhaust at cold start and idle for blue-grey smoke.
Why it matters: Register hazard wording is excessive exhaust smoke or loss of engine power. Fragments of a broken valve can enter the intake, so an open campaign is a walk-away or repair-first item.
What to look for: Check all brake lights come on over five presses, and that the car restarts first time after 30 seconds off.
Why it matters: A no-start on a customer's driveway a week after sale is a Consumer Guarantees Act call-back; failed brake lights are a WOF fail.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Look for fuses of the wrong colour or rating in the engine-bay fuse box, and check all lights and wipers work.
Why it matters: Intermittent electrical faults are the hardest thing to fix after sale and a short is a fire risk.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Look with a torch along the clutch pipe for wiring lying on it or rub marks, and ask about stalling.
Why it matters: Register hazard is stall and no-restart; the repair is simple if caught, expensive if it has already melted the loom.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Listen at the engine front for a whine or rumble rising with revs, and ask when the timing belt was done.
Why it matters: Subaru told MLIT the water pump bearing was assembled with too little clearance, that the bearing breaks, the water pump stops working, the timing belt is damaged, and the engine then stops and cannot be restarted. On these belt-driven EJ engines that failure sequence is expensive, and it does not announce itself as a coolant loss first.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check for a hybrid warning, and watch the power gauge shows electric assist pulling away and charging on lift-off.
Why it matters: Subaru notified MLIT of a service campaign stating that the relay bracket inside the hybrid traction battery was not assembled correctly, that vibration in service brings the bracket into contact with the relay harness, and that if that harness breaks or shorts the hybrid system shuts down and the car is limited to running on the engine alone.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the engine light goes out, and feel for slow starting or a flat spot on a full-throttle pull.
Why it matters: Subaru told MLIT that the EGR pressure sensor did not have enough resistance to exhaust gas, that exhaust gas corrodes it, and that the sensor output then goes wrong: the warning lamp lights, acceleration suffers, and in the worst case the engine cannot be started. These are recent, low-kilometre imports arriving in New Zealand now, and the remedy is a corrected sensor plus an engine control program rewrite.
Sources: 1
What to look for: With a torch, check the lower edge of both cylinder heads for wet oil or crusty dried coolant.
Why it matters: This is one of the best-known faults on this generation; a slow external seep today is the early stage of a leak that becomes coolant loss and a warped head, and the fix is a significant engine-out job.
What to look for: Listen at the front of the engine for a whine from a dry idler, and ask for a timing-belt invoice.
Why it matters: A snapped belt on this interference engine bends the valves and usually means a cylinder-head rebuild or a replacement engine, so an overdue or unproven belt is a real cost to price into the car.
What to look for: Crawl in traffic and pull away gently from a stop several times, feeling for shudder or surging.
Why it matters: Persistent CVT judder or surging on this generation is often an early sign of a transmission that will need a valve body, torque converter or a full replacement, a repair that can run to several thousand dollars.
What to look for: Watch the temperature gauge rise steadily after start-up, and check for an engine or EyeSight warning.
Why it matters: A failed thermo valve can disable the driver-assist systems and, if it sticks closed, let the engine overheat, so checking the temperature behaves normally and the warning lights are clear matters more on this model than most.
What to look for: Listen for a bearing rumble in each gear that changes with the clutch in or out, and look for oil drips.
Why it matters: If the campaign was missed the gearbox may now have accumulated wear; a gearbox rebuild on a low-value 2010 car is not economic.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Look along the top of the intake manifold for wiring resting on bolt heads, rub marks or tape repairs.
Why it matters: A chafed engine harness produces the intermittent faults that come back as warranty claims.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Listen for a clunk from the rear over a speed bump, and look behind each rear wheel for missing bolts.
Why it matters: A detached stabiliser bar changes handling and can contact other components; the fix is a re-torque if bolts are present.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Look and feel along the air intake duct for splits, especially at the ribbed sections and clamp ends.
Why it matters: Cheap part, but on the turbo cars unmetered air after the airflow meter can lean the engine out.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Look at the towbar welds around the tow ball mount for cracks or repairs, and check the mounting bolts are there.
Why it matters: A towbar failure under load is a serious liability and easy to inspect in the driveway.
What to look for: Check the battery date, listen for a slow crank on the first start, and ask if it has needed jump-starts.
Why it matters: A flat battery after sale is the most common early complaint; a battery alone is cheap, a repeat drain is a warranty headache.
Sources: 1
Got a question about a Subaru Forester? Ask Credov: a noise, a warning light, a part or how to fix it.
On top of the faults above, every Credov inspection covers the basics: fuel smell, leaks or filler rust, engine oil leaks, power steering fluid leak, drive belt cracks or squeal, rust underneath: chassis and mounts, engine mounts, engine oil level and colour, coolant level, colour and leaks, head gasket failure signs, cold start: rattle, knock or smoke, rough or hunting idle, engine running hot on gauge, gearbox or diff oil leak, swapped gearbox without lvv and more.
Researched by Credov from manufacturer recalls and service bulletins, owner reports and workshop sources. Repair prices are typical ranges, not quotes. See also fault codes and repair costs.