Credov's researched list of the 12 faults the Subaru WRX is known for (2008–2015), 9 of them serious or costly. Each one says what to look for when you check the car, so you can spot it before you buy. Not every car has these faults: they are the ones worth checking on this model.
What to look for: Check the fuel pump recall is done, and listen for a long crank at cold start or a stumble at 2,500 rpm.
Why it matters: Stall-while-driving hazard; the fix is a replacement pump under the campaign, so an open campaign should be closed before sale.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the VIN on the NZTA recall lookup, and ask for the dealer invoice showing the airbag inflator was replaced.
Why it matters: Takata inflators can degrade with heat and humidity and the metal housing may rupture, propelling fragments through the airbag cushion. Retailing a car with an open campaign is a clear Fair Trading Act and CGA exposure.
What to look for: Feel for judder pulling away gently, and listen for a whine at a steady 50-60 km/h that follows road speed.
Why it matters: A CVT replacement is one of the largest single repair bills on this era of Subaru and no NZ warranty program backs it. Symptoms on the test drive are the only cheap defence.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check all brake lights come on over five presses, and that the car restarts first time after 30 seconds off.
Why it matters: A no-start on a customer's driveway a week after sale is a Consumer Guarantees Act call-back; failed brake lights are a WOF fail.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the park brake recall is done, and that the electric park brake holds on a slope in Neutral.
Why it matters: Rollaway hazard per the register. Cheap to close but must be confirmed before retail.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Listen at the engine front for a whine or rumble rising with revs, and ask when the timing belt was done.
Why it matters: Subaru told MLIT the water pump bearing was assembled with too little clearance, that the bearing breaks, the water pump stops working, the timing belt is damaged, and the engine then stops and cannot be restarted. On these belt-driven EJ engines that failure sequence is expensive, and it does not announce itself as a coolant loss first.
Sources: 1
What to look for: On a gentle full-throttle pull from 2,500-3,500 rpm, feel for a stumble or misfire.
Why it matters: A cracked ringland is a known weak point of this engine and usually ends in a short block or forged-piston rebuild, a bill that can run into the thousands; it is far cheaper to find cylinder 4 running weak before buying than after.
What to look for: Shift quickly through every gear and reverse, cold and warm, listening for a grind or whine.
Why it matters: This 5-speed is the known weak link in an otherwise strong drivetrain; grinding or a broken gear usually means a gearbox rebuild or replacement, so a quiet, clean shift pattern is worth confirming before you commit.
What to look for: Pull away gently uphill feeling for judder, then hold the throttle hard in 4th at 2,500 rpm.
Why it matters: A clutch that fails this early is a known weak point on this car, and replacing it including the flywheel runs into the low thousands - worth confirming before the sale, especially on a 2015-2017 car with no replacement history.
What to look for: Check the battery date, listen for a slow crank on the first start, and ask if it has needed jump-starts.
Why it matters: A flat battery after sale is the most common early complaint; a battery alone is cheap, a repeat drain is a warranty headache.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Crouch and check the lower doors, sills and door and arch edges for chips, touch-up paint or rust spots.
Why it matters: A chip left untreated on a steel panel turns into a rust bubble, which is a far more expensive repair than a stone chip caught early.
What to look for: Check the bonnet leading edge, front bumper and lower rear doors ahead of the rear wheels for chips and touch-up dots.
Why it matters: A chip left untreated on a steel door rusts, which is a far more expensive repair than a stone chip caught early, and heavy chipping can make a genuinely low-km car look overused to a future buyer.
Got a question about a Subaru WRX? Ask Credov: a noise, a warning light, a part or how to fix it.
On top of the faults above, every Credov inspection covers the basics: fuel smell, leaks or filler rust, engine oil leaks, power steering fluid leak, drive belt cracks or squeal, rust underneath: chassis and mounts, engine mounts, engine oil level and colour, coolant level, colour and leaks, head gasket failure signs, cold start: rattle, knock or smoke, rough or hunting idle, engine running hot on gauge, gearbox or diff oil leak, swapped gearbox without lvv and more.
Researched by Credov from manufacturer recalls and service bulletins, owner reports and workshop sources. Repair prices are typical ranges, not quotes. See also fault codes and repair costs.