Credov's researched list of the 23 faults the Subaru Outback is known for (2012–2014), 18 of them serious or costly. Each one says what to look for when you check the car, so you can spot it before you buy. Not every car has these faults: they are the ones worth checking on this model.
What to look for: Ask for proof the valve spring recall was done, and listen at cold start for metallic ticking or knocking.
Why it matters: The register describes a defective valve spring that can fracture, causing the engine to stall and possibly not restart. A car with the campaign still open cannot be retailed responsibly until it is done.
What to look for: Check the fuel pump recall is done, and listen for a long crank at cold start or a stumble at 2,500 rpm.
Why it matters: Stall-while-driving hazard; the fix is a replacement pump under the campaign, so an open campaign should be closed before sale.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Brake firmly from 50 km/h to a stop several times, feeling for a rev dip, shudder or stall.
Why it matters: A torque converter that stalls the engine while braking is a safety concern as well as an expensive repair - the fix is a torque converter with the gearbox out - so this is worth testing directly rather than taking the seller's word that it drives fine.
What to look for: Check the dipstick cold for a low level, look for a top-up bottle, and watch for blue exhaust smoke.
Why it matters: The bulletin repair was an engine short block. On a $10-20k car that is a margin-destroying repair if it surfaces after sale.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Feel for judder pulling away gently, and listen for a whine at a steady 50-60 km/h that follows road speed.
Why it matters: A CVT replacement is one of the largest single repair bills on this era of Subaru and no NZ warranty program backs it. Symptoms on the test drive are the only cheap defence.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the electric park brake applies and releases five times with no amber fault light, and holds on a slope.
Why it matters: A stuck EPB immobilises the car; a non-applying EPB is a WOF fail and a rollaway risk.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the electric park brake releases cleanly with no grinding or delay after being on for a minute on a slope.
Why it matters: Register hazard: vehicle cannot be driven if the EPB will not release; it is also a tow-in for a customer.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the park brake recall is done, and that the electric park brake holds on a slope in Neutral.
Why it matters: Rollaway hazard per the register. Cheap to close but must be confirmed before retail.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the car starts within two seconds cold, and restarts hot after a ten-minute drive.
Why it matters: Register hazard: stalled engine or no-start; worst case serious injury. The fix is a connector/harness under the campaign.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Listen for a turbo whistle that rises and falls with revs, and watch for blue smoke after a hard pull.
Why it matters: Turbo replacement plus possible debris in the engine is one of the biggest bills on a diesel Outback.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the car locks in Park within a few centimetres on a slope with the park brake off, facing both ways.
Why it matters: Rollaway hazard; a customer who relies on Park alone can lose the car.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Look at the wiper motor under the cowl for melted or discoloured plastic, and smell for hot plastic after running wipers.
Why it matters: Fire risk per the register; the repair was a cover/motor under the campaign.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the pumped-up brake pedal sinks slightly as the engine starts, and feel for odd pedal effort in a firm stop.
Why it matters: Loss of brake assist is a direct safety hazard.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Listen at the engine front for a whine or rumble rising with revs, and ask when the timing belt was done.
Why it matters: Subaru told MLIT the water pump bearing was assembled with too little clearance, that the bearing breaks, the water pump stops working, the timing belt is damaged, and the engine then stops and cannot be restarted. On these belt-driven EJ engines that failure sequence is expensive, and it does not announce itself as a coolant loss first.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Listen for a knock from the front strut tops over bumps or on full lock, and look for loose-looking top nuts.
Why it matters: Subaru told MLIT that the evaluation of clamping at the strut top mounting was insufficient, so an impact such as hitting a kerb can loosen the mounting nuts; play then develops at the mounting, the mount is damaged and a noise develops.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the engine light goes out, and feel for slow starting or a flat spot on a full-throttle pull.
Why it matters: Subaru told MLIT that the EGR pressure sensor did not have enough resistance to exhaust gas, that exhaust gas corrodes it, and that the sensor output then goes wrong: the warning lamp lights, acceleration suffers, and in the worst case the engine cannot be started. These are recent, low-kilometre imports arriving in New Zealand now, and the remedy is a corrected sensor plus an engine control program rewrite.
Sources: 1
What to look for: With a torch, check the lower edge of both cylinder heads for wet oil or crusty dried coolant.
Why it matters: A weeping head gasket on this engine tends to get worse, not better, and ends in an engine-out or engine-lowered job with both heads off; spotting the early seep avoids being surprised by an overheating car later.
What to look for: From cold, count the delay engaging Reverse and Drive, and feel for judder pulling away gently uphill.
Why it matters: A CVT with worsening judder or delayed engagement tends to end in a costly transmission repair; the 2018 running change means the exact build date is worth checking before assuming the car has the improved unit.
What to look for: Listen for a bearing rumble in each gear that changes with the clutch in or out, and look for oil drips.
Why it matters: If the campaign was missed the gearbox may now have accumulated wear; a gearbox rebuild on a low-value 2010 car is not economic.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Look under the front and around the radiator with a torch for red or brown fluid on the cooler hoses.
Why it matters: A CVT run low on fluid is a CVT replacement; the recall repair itself was a hose.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Check the battery date, listen for a slow crank on the first start, and ask if it has needed jump-starts.
Why it matters: A flat battery after sale is the most common early complaint; a battery alone is cheap, a repeat drain is a warranty headache.
Sources: 1
What to look for: Touch the top of the dash near the windscreen for sticky, soft or glossy patches.
Why it matters: A sticky or cracked dash is purely cosmetic but a full dash-out replacement disturbs the heater and wiring and is a bigger job than it looks, so it is worth pricing into any offer rather than discovering it after the sale.
What to look for: Check the brake lights work on every press, and that adaptive cruise slows smoothly behind another car.
Why it matters: Cars are sold on EyeSight; an inoperative pre-collision function is a misdescription risk.
Sources: 1
Got a question about a Subaru Outback? Ask Credov: a noise, a warning light, a part or how to fix it.
On top of the faults above, every Credov inspection covers the basics: fuel smell, leaks or filler rust, engine oil leaks, power steering fluid leak, drive belt cracks or squeal, rust underneath: chassis and mounts, engine mounts, engine oil level and colour, coolant level, colour and leaks, head gasket failure signs, cold start: rattle, knock or smoke, rough or hunting idle, engine running hot on gauge, gearbox or diff oil leak, swapped gearbox without lvv and more.
Researched by Credov from manufacturer recalls and service bulletins, owner reports and workshop sources. Repair prices are typical ranges, not quotes. See also fault codes and repair costs.