Credov's researched list of the 9 faults the Suzuki Jimny is known for (2005–2018), 9 of them serious or costly. Each one says what to look for when you check the car, so you can spot it before you buy. Not every car has these faults: they are the ones worth checking on this model.
What to look for: Hit a bump at 60-80 km/h and feel for the steering wheel shaking side to side.
Why it matters: The wobble is a genuine loss of steering control at speed and the usual causes are wear items, not a single fixable fault, so a car that shows it needs a proper front-end diagnosis before it is safe to drive hard.
Typical repair: NZ$300–NZ$1,500 in New Zealand · A$310–A$1,550 in Australia
What to look for: Hit a bump at 60-80 km/h and feel for the steering wheel shaking side to side.
Why it matters: This generation's factory damper means a shimmy is not normal and points to a worn or incorrectly set-up front end that a dealer has sometimes only partly fixed by replacing kingpins, with the wobble returning within a few thousand kilometres.
Typical repair: NZ$200–NZ$1,500 in New Zealand · A$210–A$1,550 in Australia
What to look for: Select 4H on gravel and check the 4WD light goes solid and the front wheels pull.
Why it matters: A Jimny bought for its 4WD ability that cannot actually lock the front hubs needs the vacuum system or hub heads repaired before it will do the job it was bought for.
Typical repair: NZ$100–NZ$1,200 in New Zealand · A$100–A$1,240 in Australia
What to look for: Lie underneath with a torch and check every body mount and chassis rail for flaking or holes.
Why it matters: Rot at the body mounts or floor is structural, needs welding to pass a WoF, and fresh underseal over a patch can hide exactly that kind of repair.
Typical repair: NZ$500–NZ$6,000 in New Zealand · A$520–A$6,180 in Australia
What to look for: Accelerate and lift off in 3rd and 4th and listen for a whine or howl that quietens in 5th.
Why it matters: Once the countershaft bearing starts to go it only gets worse, and a failed bearing that lets the output shaft move can let the rear seal leak as well, turning a bearing job into a full rebuild.
Typical repair: NZ$1,800–NZ$3,500 in New Zealand · A$1,850–A$3,610 in Australia
What to look for: Check the coolant reservoir and oil cap for mayonnaise, and watch for white smoke when warm.
Why it matters: A head gasket that has already let coolant and combustion gases mix will keep overheating and can crack the head, and owners advise doing the timing chain and seals at the same time, making it a bigger job than a gasket alone.
Typical repair: NZ$1,200–NZ$2,800 in New Zealand · A$1,240–A$2,880 in Australia
What to look for: Listen for a siren-like whine as boost builds, and check boost hoses for splits or oil.
Why it matters: A worn turbo or a split boost hose both show up as lost power, but only the turbo is an expensive repair, so telling the two apart before you buy saves a costly misdiagnosis.
Typical repair: NZ$1,200–NZ$3,000 in New Zealand · A$1,240–A$3,090 in Australia
What to look for: Lie under the car and check the chassis rails and diff housings for flaking or scaling rust.
Why it matters: Flaking or scaling rust on the chassis rails or diff housings is structural wear starting unusually early for the car's age, so a cheap-looking car near the coast can need chassis work sooner than its distance travelled would suggest.
Typical repair: NZ$300–NZ$4,000 in New Zealand · A$310–A$4,120 in Australia
What to look for: Shift quickly between 1st, 2nd and 3rd from cold and feel for crunching going into 2nd.
Why it matters: A synchro that is already crunching into 2nd can take 2nd and reverse gear with it, turning a synchro repair into a full gearbox rebuild, and Suzuki has reportedly refused some warranty claims on cars fitted with diff lockers.
Typical repair: NZ$2,500–NZ$6,000 in New Zealand · A$2,580–A$6,180 in Australia
Got a question about a Suzuki Jimny? Ask Credov: a noise, a warning light, a part or how to fix it.
On top of the faults above, every Credov inspection covers the basics: fuel smell, leaks or filler rust, engine oil leaks, power steering fluid leak, drive belt cracks or squeal, rust underneath: chassis and mounts, engine mounts, engine oil level and colour, coolant level, colour and leaks, head gasket failure signs, cold start: rattle, knock or smoke, rough or hunting idle, engine running hot on gauge, gearbox or diff oil leak, swapped gearbox without lvv and more.
Researched by Credov from manufacturer recalls and service bulletins, owner reports and workshop sources. Repair prices are typical ranges, not quotes. See also fault codes and repair costs.