Credov's researched list of the 3 faults the Subaru WRX hatch is known for (2007–2014), 2 of them serious or costly. Each one says what to look for when you check the car, so you can spot it before you buy. Not every car has these faults: they are the ones worth checking on this model.
What to look for: On a gentle full-throttle pull from 2,500-3,500 rpm, feel for a stumble or misfire.
Why it matters: A cracked ringland is a known weak point of this engine and usually ends in a short block or forged-piston rebuild, a bill that can run into the thousands; it is far cheaper to find cylinder 4 running weak before buying than after.
What to look for: Shift quickly through every gear and reverse, cold and warm, listening for a grind or whine.
Why it matters: This 5-speed is the known weak link in an otherwise strong drivetrain; grinding or a broken gear usually means a gearbox rebuild or replacement, so a quiet, clean shift pattern is worth confirming before you commit.
What to look for: Crouch and check the lower doors, sills and door and arch edges for chips, touch-up paint or rust spots.
Why it matters: A chip left untreated on a steel panel turns into a rust bubble, which is a far more expensive repair than a stone chip caught early.
Got a question about a Subaru WRX hatch? Ask Credov: a noise, a warning light, a part or how to fix it.
On top of the faults above, every Credov inspection covers the basics: fuel smell, leaks or filler rust, engine oil leaks, power steering fluid leak, drive belt cracks or squeal, rust underneath: chassis and mounts, engine mounts, engine oil level and colour, coolant level, colour and leaks, head gasket failure signs, cold start: rattle, knock or smoke, rough or hunting idle, engine running hot on gauge, gearbox or diff oil leak, swapped gearbox without lvv and more.
Researched by Credov from manufacturer recalls and service bulletins, owner reports and workshop sources. Repair prices are typical ranges, not quotes. See also fault codes and repair costs.