Credov's researched list of the 10 faults the Volvo XC60 is known for (2014–2017), 8 of them serious or costly. Each one says what to look for when you check the car, so you can spot it before you buy. Not every car has these faults: they are the ones worth checking on this model.
What to look for: Look along the top of the engine and the heat shield for dried coolant crust or wetness, and check the coolant level.
Why it matters: This is a known fire-risk pattern once the coolant-low warning is ignored, so it is worth checking even on a car with no warning light showing right now, since a cracked hose leaks slowly before it fails outright.
What to look for: Listen at idle for a growling or squealing pulley at the front of the engine and check the auxiliary belt for cracks.
Why it matters: The replacement parts are inexpensive, but letting a worn idler or tensioner go unchecked risks a sudden, dangerous belt failure at speed and an engine rebuild or replacement.
What to look for: Read the oil level in the driver display warm and level, and watch for blue exhaust smoke.
Why it matters: Owner reports describe engines failing on the motorway after months of unnoticed oil burning, and the only real fix once the rings have clogged is new pistons and rings or a replacement engine, which is a major cost against a car that otherwise looks and drives fine.
What to look for: In electric Pure mode, accelerate and lift off between 20 and 60 km/h, listening for whine, clunks or grinding from the rear.
Why it matters: Owner and technician reports describe dealer replacement of the ERAD unit running well into the thousands of dollars, and some cars have needed a second unit after the first replacement, so a quiet-sounding rear end on the day is not proof the unit is sound.
What to look for: In stop-start traffic and pulling away on a slope, feel for judder or slipping, and look underneath for fluid leaks.
Why it matters: Owner and reliability reports describe juddering or delayed shifts on this gearbox as a deal-breaker, and a clutch pack or mechatronic rebuild once it fails runs to several thousand dollars.
What to look for: Ask for an invoice for the timing belt, tensioner and idler with the date and kilometres it was done.
Why it matters: Because this engine is often assumed to be chain-driven given how long the interval runs, a buyer can easily overlook that it still needs a belt change, and a belt that fails on this interference engine wrecks it.
What to look for: Scan for EGR or boost fault codes and watch for limp mode or hesitation on the test drive.
Why it matters: Beyond the drivability and fuel-use cost of a sooted EGR system, Volvo treated the overheating risk from a packed intake manifold on these engines seriously enough to act on worldwide, so this is worth checking even without an obvious fault showing.
What to look for: Lie beside the car and look behind the engine on the right side for oil wetness at the angle gear and propshaft.
Why it matters: Because the car can lose rear-wheel drive with no dashboard warning, a buyer could easily pay for an AWD car that is quietly running as front-wheel drive only, and the repair is one of the pricier drivetrain jobs on these cars.
What to look for: Look into each headlamp from an angle in daylight for inside haze, dust or outside yellowing, and compare both sides.
Why it matters: Dim or uneven headlights are both a night-driving safety issue and a cosmetic one, and a unit with internal haze or dust cannot be fixed by polishing, so the buyer may be facing a full headlamp replacement.
What to look for: Look at the driver seat outer bolsters for creasing, shiny or grey patches and splits along the seams.
Why it matters: This wear shows up well before it would on an equivalent fabric or cloth seat, and once the leather has split or worn through its colour coat, fixing it means a proper leather repair or re-trim, not just a clean.
Got a question about a Volvo XC60? Ask Credov: a noise, a warning light, a part or how to fix it.
On top of the faults above, every Credov inspection covers the basics: fuel smell, leaks or filler rust, engine oil leaks, power steering fluid leak, drive belt cracks or squeal, rust underneath: chassis and mounts, engine mounts, engine oil level and colour, coolant level, colour and leaks, head gasket failure signs, cold start: rattle, knock or smoke, rough or hunting idle, engine running hot on gauge, gearbox or diff oil leak, swapped gearbox without lvv and more.
Researched by Credov from manufacturer recalls and service bulletins, owner reports and workshop sources. Repair prices are typical ranges, not quotes. See also fault codes and repair costs.