Credov's researched list of the 17 faults the Volvo XC90 is known for (2005–2014), 14 of them serious or costly. Each one says what to look for when you check the car, so you can spot it before you buy. Not every car has these faults: they are the ones worth checking on this model.
What to look for: With a reasonably full tank, smell inside the rear seat area and around the rear of the car for raw fuel.
Why it matters: NHTSA owner complaints describe cracked fuel pump flanges leaking fuel into the cabin area on this model; a fuel leak this close to the cabin is a fire risk and the pump assembly has to be replaced to fix it, not just topped up or ignored.
What to look for: Listen at idle for a growling or squealing pulley at the front of the engine and look for a cracked auxiliary belt.
Why it matters: The part itself is cheap, but a seized idler that is not caught in time can destroy the engine at speed, so a worn pulley found at inspection is a warning of a very expensive failure if ignored.
What to look for: Look along the top of the engine and the heat shield for dried coolant crust or wetness, and check the coolant level.
Why it matters: This is a known fire-risk pattern once the coolant-low warning is ignored, so it is worth checking even on a car with no warning light showing right now, since a cracked hose leaks slowly before it fails outright.
What to look for: Feel the front carpets for damp, check the headliner and boot floor for stains, and test every electric item.
Why it matters: NHTSA owner complaints describe this fault progressing from flickering electrics to a car that will not start, and a CEM damaged by water has to be replaced and coded to the car rather than cleaned, on top of fixing the drains that let the water in.
What to look for: Look at the angle gear behind the front-right of the gearbox for wet oil, and try turning the propshaft by hand.
Why it matters: Owner reports describe failures from as low as about 80,000 km, worse on the heavier V8, and a stripped sleeve leaves the car running as front-wheel-drive only with no dashboard warning, so a buyer can easily pay for AWD they no longer have.
What to look for: From a stop in Drive, then through every gear, feel for a harsh slam, flare, or a delayed engagement.
Why it matters: Owner reports describe transmissions replaced from as early as 75,000 km, and a car that has already started flaring or slamming between gears is heading toward a valve body job or a full rebuild rather than a simple fluid change.
What to look for: Stationary and warm, rev slowly to 2,000-3,000 rpm and listen for a deep growl or rumble from mid-engine.
Why it matters: Owner reports put repairs at thousands of dollars once the bearing fails, typically between about 130,000 and 195,000 km, and a shaft that lets go can also damage the timing chain drive, turning a bearing job into a full engine rebuild or replacement.
What to look for: Feel the front carpets for damp, check the headliner by the sunroof, and lift the boot floor for water or rust.
Why it matters: Owner reports describe this leak reaching control modules that then have to be replaced, and because the water path is hidden under trim and carpet a buyer can easily miss it on a dry day until a module fails later.
What to look for: Read the oil level in the driver display warm and level, and watch for blue exhaust smoke.
Why it matters: Owner reports describe engines failing on the motorway after months of unnoticed oil burning, and the only real fix once the rings have clogged is new pistons and rings or a replacement engine, which is a major cost against a car that otherwise looks and drives fine.
What to look for: In electric Pure mode, accelerate and lift off between 20 and 60 km/h, listening for whine, clunks or grinding from the rear.
Why it matters: Owner and technician reports describe dealer replacement of the ERAD unit running well into the thousands of dollars, and some cars have needed a second unit after the first replacement, so a quiet-sounding rear end on the day is not proof the unit is sound.
What to look for: Ask for an invoice naming the timing belt, water pump and auxiliary belt kit with the date and kilometres done.
Why it matters: This is a scheduled replacement, not a fault, but on an interference engine a belt that is overdue and lets go destroys the engine, so proof of the work is one of the most important documents to see before buying.
What to look for: Ask for an invoice naming the timing belt, water pump and auxiliary belt kit with the date and kilometres done.
Why it matters: This is a scheduled replacement rather than a fault, but a missed or overdue belt change on this interference engine risks total engine damage, so proof of the work matters as much as any fault check.
What to look for: Ask for an invoice for the timing belt, tensioner and idler with the date and kilometres it was done.
Why it matters: Because this engine is often assumed to be chain-driven given how long the interval runs, a buyer can easily overlook that it still needs a belt change, and a belt that fails on this interference engine wrecks it.
What to look for: Scan for EGR or boost fault codes and watch for limp mode or hesitation on the test drive.
Why it matters: Beyond the drivability and fuel-use cost of a sooted EGR system, Volvo treated the overheating risk from a packed intake manifold on these engines seriously enough to act on worldwide, so this is worth checking even without an obvious fault showing.
What to look for: Look up at the roof lining in daylight and press it gently near the sunroof and rear for sagging or crunchy foam.
Why it matters: Owner forum threads describe the sagging spreading once it starts, and a sprayed-glue patch does not hold, so a buyer is looking at a proper re-trim job on a big SUV with a sunroof, not a quick fix.
What to look for: Lock and unlock with the remote and the centre button and check every door and the tailgate actually locks.
Why it matters: A new lock unit is not expensive on its own, but the door card and glass channel have to come out to fit it, so labour is most of the cost, and a door that silently fails to lock is a security issue for the owner.
What to look for: Look along every window surround and the roof rails from an angle in good light for milky blotches or staining.
Why it matters: A full set of replacement window trims adds up quickly and warranty claims are often refused, so a buyer should know this is a cosmetic cost they may have to carry themselves.
Got a question about a Volvo XC90? Ask Credov: a noise, a warning light, a part or how to fix it.
On top of the faults above, every Credov inspection covers the basics: fuel smell, leaks or filler rust, engine oil leaks, power steering fluid leak, drive belt cracks or squeal, rust underneath: chassis and mounts, engine mounts, engine oil level and colour, coolant level, colour and leaks, head gasket failure signs, cold start: rattle, knock or smoke, rough or hunting idle, engine running hot on gauge, gearbox or diff oil leak, swapped gearbox without lvv and more.
Researched by Credov from manufacturer recalls and service bulletins, owner reports and workshop sources. Repair prices are typical ranges, not quotes. See also fault codes and repair costs.